Catoctin Orchid Society
  Growers' Thoughts



RE-BLOOM AND MAINTAIN YOUR

STORE BOUGHT OR GIFT PHALEANOPSIS


Hybrid Phaleanopsis for the last few years have become available in many “box” stores and supermarkets at a remarkably low price. Mass production of these plants by tissue culture in Taiwan accounts for this dramatic price reduction and their year long availability. A beautiful Phal in bloom is now competitive with the seasonal Poinsettia, Easter lily and Chrysanthemum for gifts and for decorative use in the home and office. Unlike the seasonal plants which are difficult to maintain and recycle, a Phal can become an easily kept houseplant that will be in bloom for many months of the year.


Here are some tips for keeping your Phal happy and productive. The usual orchid culture techniques do apply but you will find that the store bought Phal is quite rugged and accommodating to household or office conditions.


  1. WATER. DO NOT OVERWATER! A plant with soggy roots will die quickly. Water once a week or ten days....NO MORE THAN THIS. Soak the plant under a tap running with room temperature water OR pot water if the plant is in a decorative container or in a saucer. POUR OFF the collected water after a half hour. Sitting in the collected water for a short time allows the root mass to soak up moisture.


  1. LIGHT. An hour of direct sunlight a day (no more) would be ideal. Bright artificial light may work but a good window location is probably best. If scorch marks appear on the leaves you have too much light. Too little light will result in soft floppy leaves and reduced flower production.

  2. FLOWERING. When the original flowers on a spike fade and fall off, cut the spike back to the second node above the origin. A subsequent spike often follows from one of these nodes. If the plant is doing well, a new spike may appear in addition. Have stakes and plant clips ready when new spikes start to carefully train them upward and straight. Be careful with them since they are quite brittle and are easily broken.              - Bernard Gerrard                                                                (Reprint with acknowledgment)


HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH ORCHIDS

RULE #1: ANYBODY CAN TAKE A GREAT PICTURE AND EVERYBODY TAKES BAD PICTURES!

  1. EQUIPMENT

                     NON-DIGITAL (aka OLD SCHOOL)

    ADVANTAGES: BETTER QUALITY PRINTING

    MANUAL CAMERAS LEAVE IT UP TO YOU

    USED CAMERAS CHEAP!

    DISADVANTAGES: CAN’T TELL IF CAMERA IS WORKING

    HAVE TO WAIT FOR FILM TO BE DEVELOPED

   JUST GETTING SOMEONE TO DEVELOP FILM

  1.          DIGITAL (aka NEW SCHOOL)

                    ADVANTAGES: INSTANT GRATIFICATION

   EASIER EDITING

                    POINT AND SHOOTS TAKE GREAT PICTS

                   DISADVANTAGES: PRINTING NOT NECESSARILY AS GOOD

                   LITTLE SCREENS= FUZZY PICTURES

                   SLR TYPE CAMERAS VERY EXPENSIVE

3.            TRIPOD (STEADY PLEASE)

      EVEN THE STEADIEST HAND WILL PRODUCE A BLURRY PICTURE USE A TRIPOD TO STEADY THE CAMERA

4.   MACRO, MACRO, MACRO (ARE YOU READY FOR YOUR CLOSE UP?)

GOOD MACRO LENS OR MACRO FILTERS TO GET SUPER CLOSE UP

                        USUALLY DENOTED BY FLOWER SYMBOL ON DIGITAL CAMERAS

5. PICK A GOOD FLOWER (HOW TO PICK AN UBER MODEL)

         SOME MORE DIFFICULT TO PHOTO – TOO SMALL, TOO DARK, TOO LARGE

6. BACKGROUND (HOW TO RUN A BACKGROUND CHECK)

THE PLAINER OR MORE NEUTRAL THE BACKGROUND THE BETTER ALWAYS KEEP AN EYE ON BACKGROUND OR YOU MAY BE   SURPRISED!

Hint: Place a solid t-shirt over back of kitchen style chair and place orchid plant on seat…

7. LIGHTING (LOTS OF SOFT LIGHT PLEASE)

      NATURAL LIGHT IS BEST

      TRY TO ALWAYS AVOID FLUORESCENT LIGHT (WILL GIVE GREEN/GREENISH PICTURES)

           INDOOR LIGHT WILL AFFECT COLOR OF PICTURES

8.  SPOTLIGHTS

                          CAN ADD GLARE BE CAREFUL TO DEFLECT THE LIGHT

             9. BOUNCE BOARDS 
             
                     CAN BE ANYTHING THAT REFLECTS LIGHT

                          FOIL WRAPPED CARDBOARD

                         WHITE FOAM BOARD

                         SHEET OF PAPER

              AUTO FLASHES WILL THROW GLARE ALSO ( DEFLECT THE LIGHT/ MUTE/ TURN OFF)

            10. EDIT (EVEN THE SUPERMODELS DO IT)

  USE PHOTOSHOP TO SHARPEN THE LINES, EDIT OUT TAGS, ENHANCE THE LIGHTING AND IF YOU ARE A PRO REMOVE UNWANTED    INFLORENCES!


    11. FIND THE PICTURE YOU WANT PRINT IT! MOUNT IT WITH A MAT AND FRAME IT!



HAVE CONFIDENCE AND PLAY! TRY MIXING UP THE CLASSICAL VIEW, SPRINKLE WATER ON FLOWER, SHOOT THE FLOWER PROFILE, SHOOT THE FLOWER BACKWARDS, MAKE IT YOURS AND ABOVE ALL ELSE - HAVE FUN!         -Jennifer Jones

(Reprint with acknowledgment)


BUGS!
     
        
Insect infestations are a recurring topic that comes up at our meetings with scale, mealie bugs and to a lesser degree, aphids being of concern.  These pests, particularly scale, can quickly ruin a plant if left untreated.  In this discussion we can pass over aphids which are easily controlled with the mildest of agents.  Infestation can come from new plants added to the collection or from ANTS which will transport these sucking insects to new locations so that they can harvest the "honeydew" which they secrete.  In addition, the larval stage of the pests can migrate around on their own.  Scale in particular requires serious vigilance; disfigured leaves and a decline in plant vigor, if not death, is a sad business.  

           There are a number of insecticides on the market.  I am not going to enter a discussion on "organic" vs "chemical" treatments but will offer observations on two effective products that have worked well for me.

           The first is Enstar II.  This is very expensive but a little goes a long way.  Splitting a bottle with friends might help in the initial outlay.  Enstar works by interrupting the growth cycle of the insect larvae.  It is relatively non-toxic and the insect targets DO NOT BUILD UP A TOLERANCE as they do to many chemical insecticides.  You will not find Enstar in your local garden centers since the cost will frighten off most customers. One of the few sources for this product is: http://www.growersupply.com/enstarii.html 

            The second is a relatively new product, Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer.  This product is available in garden centers and Big Box stores.  The active ingredients (Imidocloprid and Cyfluthrin) are listed as effective against scale, mealy bugs, aphids and many other pests.  I have found it so and, according to the label, it is residual and lasts "up to 30 days".  There has been some positive on-line discussion of this product on Orchid Growers Digest (ODG) which first alerted me to it.  It can be bought in a pre-mixed spray bottle for about $5.00....a nice convenience.  BG

(Reprint with acknowledgment)


INDOORS-OUTDOORS

            Orchids love the outdoors and those that have been moved there are responding to our High Summer, just like their native tropical haunts, with new vegetative growth, vigorous fresh roots and even new flower spikes.  The ample sunshine, high humidity, warmth, breezes and rainwater all work to the grower's advantage and when the time comes to move them indoors again we should have a robust plant that will reward us, hopefully, in the cold months of winter.
             I start moving mine
to a shady spot after the middle of May, putting them on tables and stands. under trees.  Even high light types can burn with the abrupt change to outdoor sunlight.  After a week or so of this the high light plants get moved to increasingly brighter spots.  You should do some reading to determine the light requirements of different genera and make your moves accordingly.  Many commercial growers offer this information in their catalogs and on-line listings.  Generalizations:  Phals and Paphs burn very easily...keep them in the shade.  Cymbidiums, if you grow them, will take lots of sun after you have hardened them off.   These active growing conditions provide a great time to do repotting. 
             As always, BE VIGILANT ABOUT INSECTS.  (See the article above.)   Sucking insects can drag a plant down rapidly.  Check for slugs and snails too and deal with them if necessary.
             Here in the mid-Atlantic September is the time to think about bringing your plants in.  Orchids are not as dainty as you might think and several nights in the low 40's F. will not hurt them.  Every bit of outdoor conditions should be acquired.  Cymbidiums can stay out as long as possible, even into November.  They will take temperatures down to freezing and a good chilling is essential to get spikes to form.  Throw an old sheet over them if a frost is predicted.  When you bring the plants in is another good time to check for and treat for insects.   BG

A TERRARIUM for INTERMEDIATE TO WARM GROWING MINIATURE

ORCHIDS

A terrarium is an enclosed system wherein constant light, temperature, water quality and humidity can be easily maintained. Furthermore this system can be easily and economically maintained anywhere in a home environment. The few simple components are readily available and once set up the terrarium only requires some suitable orchids to populate this micro environment.






Maintenance


Since this is a closed system minimum maintenance is required. Daily light misting for mounted plants is most beneficial. Potted plants can go for a week or longer between waterings. Observe the usual cultural practices in regards to water quality and fertilizing. Keep the trays or rock layer “watered up” to maintain that high tropical humidity orchids love. Choose suitable plants, arrange them either on the sides (mounted) or on the bottom. Enjoy!


-Bernard Gerrard-







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