COS Minutes

BUGS!

         Insect infestations are a recurring topic that comes up at our meetings with scale, mealie bugs and to a lesser degree, aphids being of concern. These pests, particularly scale, can quickly ruin a plant if left untreated. In this discussion we can pass over aphids which are easily controlled with the mildest of agents. Infestation can come from new plants added to the collection or from ANTS which will transport these sucking insects to new locations so that they can harvest the "honeydew" which they secrete. In addition, the larval stage of the pests can migrate around on their own. Scale in particular requires serious vigilance; disfigured leaves and a decline in plant vigor, if not death, is a sad business.

           There are a number of insecticides on the market. I am not going to enter a discussion on "organic" vs "chemical" treatments but will offer observations on two effective products that have worked well for me.

   The first is Enstar II. This is very expensive but a little goes a long way. Splitting a bottle with friends might help in the initial outlay. Enstar works by interrupting the growth cycle of the insect larvae. It is relatively non-toxic and the insect targets DO NOT BUILD UP A TOLERANCE as they do to many chemical insecticides. You will not find Enstar in your local garden centers since the cost will frighten off most customers. One of the few sources for this product is: http://www.growersupply.com/enstarii.html

            The second is a relatively new product, Bayer Rose and Flower Insect Killer. This product is available in garden centers and Big Box stores. The active ingredients (Imidocloprid and Cyfluthrin) are listed as effective against scale, mealy bugs, aphids and many other pests. I have found it so and, according to the label, it is residual and lasts "up to 30 days". There has been some positive on-line discussion of this product on Orchid Growers Digest (ODG) which first alerted me to it. It can be bought in a pre-mixed spray bottle for about $5.00....a nice convenience. BG

(Reprint with acknowledgment)

INDOORS-OUTDOORS

            Orchids love the outdoors and those that have been moved there are responding to our High Summer, just like their native tropical haunts, with new vegetative growth, vigorous fresh roots and even new flower spikes. The ample sunshine, high humidity, warmth, breezes and rainwater all work to the grower's advantage and when the time comes to move them indoors again we should have a robust plant that will reward us, hopefully, in the cold months of winter.
             I start moving mine to a shady spot after the middle of May, putting them on tables and stands. under trees. Even high light types can burn with the abrupt change to outdoor sunlight. After a week or so of this the high light plants get moved to increasingly brighter spots. You should do some reading to determine the light requirements of different genera and make your moves accordingly. Many commercial growers offer this information in their catalogs and on-line listings. Generalizations: Phals and Paphs burn very easily...keep them in the shade. Cymbidiums, if you grow them, will take lots of sun after you have hardened them off. These active growing conditions provide a great time to do repotting.
             As always, BE VIGILANT ABOUT INSECTS. (See the article above.)   Sucking insects can drag a plant down rapidly. Check for slugs and snails too and deal with them if necessary.
             Here in the mid-Atlantic September is the time to think about bringing your plants in. Orchids are not as dainty as you might think and several nights in the low 40's F. will not hurt them. Every bit of outdoor conditions should be acquired. Cymbidiums can stay out as long as possible, even into November. They will take temperatures down to freezing and a good chilling is essential to get spikes to form. Throw an old sheet over them if a frost is predicted. When you bring the plants in is another good time to check for and treat for insects.   BG